Coloring livelihoods with natural dyes

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Coloring livelihoods with natural dyes

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Plants are known to produce some of the most valued dyes in the world for their natural, beautiful and durable colors. One such plant is Natal indigo (Indigofera arrecta), an indigenous African plant known for producing indigo dye – dubbed ‘the king of dyes’ - due to its fascinating deep blue colour, its great colour fastness to light and the wide range of colours obtained by combining it with other natural dyes.

Indigo dye, like other popular natural dyes have been used since very ancient times for dyeing textiles. However, harvesting of these plant resources for production of these dyes has over the centuries been from the wild consequently limiting their commercialization and potential benefits to the local communities.

Indigo arrecta 6 months old

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In 2007, Mondo Gusto Association in collaboration with Akanin’ny Marary, a local NGO and Missouri Botanical Garden initiated a project that sought to commercialize production of natural dyes in the Amoron’i Mania region of Madagascar. The project was funded by PROTA.

Mr. Fabio Checcucci, the project coordinator from Mondo Gusto Association explains that the project specifically sought to address the issues of production and commercialization, including, multiplication and domestication, public awareness and sensitization of farmers on the economic importance of natural dyes, training of farmers on sustainable management and conservation techniques on dye plants.

Using information from the Handbook – PROTA 3: Dyes and tannins - the project identified three species of dye plants for production and commercialization: Natal indigo (locally known as Aika), Bongo (Danaïs ligustrifolia) and Nato (Labourdonnaisia madagascariensis). The project activities were targeted at two categories of beneficiaries: farmers (direct beneficiaries) and textile artisans (indirect beneficiaries) who would use the product from the farmers.

Indigo arrecta powder sample

Information from the PROTA book also aided in the preparation of technical guidelines for species propagation and on farm management, extraction techniques and stabilization. Project staff used the guidelines to train farmers and craftsmen during the field trials.

A conclusion from the trials was that Aika was the species that responded best to propagation. The project succeeded in raising Aika seedlings in the nursery, planting and pigment extraction. For Nato, there were problems with domestication and survival rate on the farm was low. Over 1000 seedlings were raised in the nursery and planted in the Eastern Forest. Cuttings and seedlings production were unsuccessful for Bongo.

The project trained 104 farmers on Aika seedling production, plantation and maintenance. Technical manual leaflets were prepared on Aika planting techniques. A further 15 farmers in Larinoro village were trained on pigment powder extraction. Demonstration plots of 1.5 acres were established at three sites with 650 seedlings of Aika on each plot. There was a permanent trained technician at each site for Aika propagation, transplanting, maintenance and leaf harvesting, as well diffusion of the technologies to farmers. Demonstrations on Aika leaf harvesting were conducted at each site. Over 475 other farmers were sensitized on the benefits of cultivation of Aika through meetings and radio broadcasts.

Decanting basin for pigment extraction

Over 120 farmers established multiplication plots of the dye plants seedlings for sale. They produced a total of 200,000 plants of Aika and about 100,000 plants of Bongo. For these farmers, multiplication of dye plants is an income generating activity.

Although incomes from this multiplication and from the sale of pigment extraction are still low for farmers, craftsmen were very positive about prospects of this venture. They produced 200 kg of dyed thread/fiber from Aika dye, sold to them by farmers. For the craftsmen, incomes have been raised by up to 10 % from sale of dyed threads. Amoron’i Mania region is a touristic zone well known for craftsmen. Textile production is very popular in this area and use of natural dye is common. Aika which is a fast growing species could be very interesting and profitable for farmers and craftsmen in the region.

With regards to environmental aspects, Aika, as a leguminous species, is useful for nitrogen fixing and improves soil structure, permeability and fertility. The species can also be planted with crops in an agroforestry system. It can also be used for erosion control. In addition, wastes from pigment extraction are used by farmers as composts. Aika also acts as a natural herbicide because it prevents Striga (witchweed) from invading farmlands.

Silk textile dyed with aika dye

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